Rose's May Shop Watch - Chargrilled Artichokes

Chargrilled Artichokes 

Waitrose

What?
Smoky Chargrilled Artichokes in a Herb Dressing

Why?
Antipasto of the season

Why don’t the British eat artichokes? Admittedly when first faced with a globe artichoke, a small dish of vinaigrette and a knife and fork, they can be rather daunting. And it is only the globe artichokes we tend to see in the UK, whereas in southern Europe you find the small young artichokes which have no choke – the violet ones in Provence which appear on market stalls with their long stems in spring; and the spikey prickly ones to be found in Italy which take a bit more managing. But they are, in fact, really easy to prepare – you just pull off any tough outer leaves, cut off the top third, leave about 2 inches of stem, and tidy the lower section where it joins the stem using a potato peeler. They can then be cooked whole to make Artichauts à la Barigoule; or stuffed with mint and parsley and cooked upside down to make Carciofi alla Romana. Or sliced and cooked in a little stock and wine, a splash of cream and stirred through tagliatelle. Or, my favourite, is a Roman stew of sliced artichokes with the first peas and broad beans of the season: Vignarola. Or even sliced raw and served as a salad with slivers of Parmesan. So why are they not grown here? Or imported?

As a result, we are mostly denied these delicacies made from the spring artichokes, but the Italians have fortunately found a way of extending their season by preserving them under oil. I have found some wonderful artichoke pastes to bring us the delicious nutty flavour of artichokes all year round when you spread them on bruschetta, as part of a plate of antipasti. Belazu do an Artichoke and Truffle Pesto which you can use with pasta but also spread on toast. The artichoke flavour is somewhat masked by the truffle which is no bad thing if you like truffles. There is one from Seggiano which is a Pâte of Carciofi made from raw artichokes, with lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil in Italy. And there is a chunky one from Harvey Nichols: Bruschetta di Carciofi. It is made from a blend of artichokes (69%), red peppers, olive oil, vinegar, capers, garlic and parsley which, because of its texture, looks and tastes home-made. With all of them, simply toast ciabatta or country bread or sourdough, ideally on a barbecue or grill pan, then rub the bread with garlic and add a dollop of peppery olive oil, and finally spread with the artichoke paste. 

But if you just want to eat artichokes, then there is a wide selection sold in the chill cabinet or in jars - I always go for the chargrilled or roasted ones as they have more flavour. Of the jars, I like Roasted Artichoke Hearts in extra virgin olive oil from Seggiano, although they are not cheap. A small family run production in Tuscany prepare fresh (not canned) artichokes, roast them over volcanic rock, and preserve them in the traditional manner under extra virgin olive oil. The result is small whole blackened artichokes with a unique flavour. Look for them in good delicatessens

But I am going to recommend the chargrilled artichokes from Waitrose sold in the chill cabinet. They have a lovely smoky flavour with a very herby dressing of basil, parsley and oregano. Mix them with fresh peas and broad beans which will soon be coming into season for a vignarola. Or simply tip them into a bowl and serve them alongside antipasti (Parma ham, tomato and mozzarella salad, salami, olives, maybe a frittata) for a perfect simple summer lunch. Artichokes all summer long!

Conclusion:
Art not choke

Product Details:
Smoky Chargrilled Chargrilled Artichokes in a Herb Dressing
175g £3.90
waitrose.com

Price and availability as at 30th April 2022 
 

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