Stilton

Named after the village on the Great North Road where it was sold to coach travellers, who spread its fame all over the country.

A whole Stilton is 9 inches high and 8 inches across (23 x 20 cm) with a crinkly brown rind. The habit of spooning the cheese out of the centre and then pouring port in to keep it moist still persists. In my opinion this ruins the flavour and texture of the cheese, which really ought to be firm and creamy white with a clean network of blue veins. It is far better to slice Stilton horizontally and to keep it wrapped, in the fridge.

At full maturity (six months) Stilton should be rich and mellow with a sharp, salty aftertaste. The young version, white Stilton, has not developed a mould and is mild and crumbly.